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Thu, Jun 28, 2007 1:35 EDT

Hyderabad, Impressions of India

Topic: Development

Blog: Doing Business in Real Time

Current Rating: 4 Comments: 6

We landed at the Hyderabad airport around one o’clock Monday morning and headed to our hotel for a few hours of sleep before meeting the IT team we came here to work with. A car picked us up at 8:00am at the hotel and drove us to the development center of the global electronics and software company where we are doing a 30-Day Blitz.

This experience is giving me some appreciation of what it might be like for Indians who leave their country and come to a strange new place like the United States to work. If I find India different and overwhelming at times, I can imagine that Indians must find my country different and overwhelming at times too. Here are a few impressions I’ve had in these last several days.

Let’s start with the traffic; it’s jammed and chaotic to put it mildly. The other night our hosts arranged a dinner for us. At the end of the day we got into a van to go from the company’s development center in the outskirts of the city to an upscale restaurant on the waterfront of the lake in the middle of Hyderabad. This time of year is monsoon season here and it started raining heavily. As the rain poured down, our van merged into a mob of motor cycles, cars, trucks, buses and motor scooter rickshaws all headed downtown.

I’d been warned about the traffic, and it wasn’t going so fast that I felt like I was in danger (most of the time) but the traffic was bumper to bumper and moving steadily. Our van and the crowd of vehicles around us weaved back and forth between lanes, squeezing past each other with inches to spare. The air was filled with car, truck and motor bike horns beeping continually as the whole procession flowed like a river into town. As we got further into the city the road become narrower and pedestrians began to blend into the mix as they walked along the side of the road.

At one point our driver turned off the main road and took a short cut that had us winding through very poor neighborhoods. There were lots of people, narrow streets, crumbling pavement, and little open shops lining the curbs on either side.

After about an hour of this, we arrived at our destination. The restaurant where we ate was like a fancy restaurant in California. It was in a new building with air conditioning, a floor to ceiling picture window running the length of the wall that faced the lake, and it served very good and very spicy Indian food. It’s a cliché to say India is a land of stark contrasts, yet it is true.

During the day, while we are at the company’s development center, I am struck by the remarkable similarity of the work environment here and the environment at the company’s headquarters back in the States. There’s a similar blue jeans casual dress code in both places, people gather in conference rooms for meetings, and teams of men and women work together on projects.

I also notice something else. One day the women on our team will be wearing shirts and blue jeans, and the next day they’ll be wearing flowing Indian saris of embroidered fabrics in shades of red, green, blue and saffron. I can’t help but admire their style and their refusal to be pigeon-holed into the standard western style of dress.

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Thu, Jun 28, 2007 3:19 EDT
Anonymous user
Posted by: PierG
Rating:

I've just had the same experience and exactly the same impressions. See the latest posts here: http://pierg.wordpress.com

We'd love to read more about the aptitude of this wonderful people in being involved in agile projects. This is a practice that they seem not to be used to.

PierG
http://pierg.wordpress.com

 
Thu, Jun 28, 2007 6:56 EDT
Anonymous user
Posted by: punit bhati
Rating:

Dear ,
You have no idea how to do the business.:)

 
Thu, Jun 28, 2007 13:39 EDT
Posted by: asengupta
Rating:

I also love the energy in India. When I was growing up in India, young people had a can't do attitude. High unemployment and caste/tribe based education-job quotas broke the confidence of the Indian youth. Now, when I meet young Indians the excitement in the air reminds me of sillicon valley in 1999. India has come a long way and will go even further.

 
Thu, Jun 28, 2007 14:49 EDT
Posted by: Ravi Chitturi
Rating:

Michael,

Please allow me to elaborate on couple of your observations...

Setting the stage - I grew up in a different Hyderabad when I was a little kid, not the one you are seeing now. Having gone through acclimitation of moving to US for advanced studies nearly couple of decades ago, I can appreciate your comments about the challenges one could face by transporting into a different cultural environment.

My first cultural shock - during my first graduate school day, my classmates didn't stand up when the professor entered the classroom (Of course, I did, and my friends still tease me for that). Holy cow, how blasphemous these Americans are! I grew up to treat our teacher as God's equivalent. And, alas! they referred the professor on a first name basis. It didn't stop there... one of my fellow student put his feet up on a table infront of him while driking a coke and asking Professor a question!! Didn't their parents teach them to respect our teachers?! My thoughts wandered... how can America be so successfull if they left their manners? I admit, I was sweating profusely the entire time I was on campus that first day. Talk about being properly oriented, I was out driking beer with my research Professor towards the end of the semester. Additionally, I was one of the cool TA when I taught few classes for sophomores and juniors the following semesters.

My bottomline - behind all those cultural and aesthetic differences, it's the same human elements that keeps us going.

Disparity - you metioned couple of times that you were rather bemused (I know, I'm paraphrazing here but bear with me while I attempt to read your viewpoint), about seeing poverty on side while noting tremendous growth, talent, and energy. Well, that is true. Unfotunately, most economists state that this disparity is growing at a rapid pace in most developing nations including India. I wonder how this situation will sustain while rich is getting richer and poor is getting poorer, thanks to the Indian growing entrepreneurship, development, and talent. Well, one thing for sure that drives the current state in Hyderabad and across India - "Survival of the fittest". This is the manthra I grew up with and this could be the most important motivational factor behind what you described as "energy".

I want to write/share more but I don't think this post will allow. Again, this is one man's opinion for now.

Ravi Chitturi

 
Thu, Jun 28, 2007 18:56 EDT
Posted by: Michael Hugos
Rating: 90

Hi Ravi,

 

Thank you for taking the time to share your insights . I do appreciate your point about "survival of the fittest" being the motivational factor behind the energy that I see here. That may also be what another reader, Punit Bhati, refers to with the cryptic comment, "You have no idea how to do the business..."

 

I can see clearly that there is no social saftey net here as there is in Europe and North America; people here must work long and hard and keep going in order to survive. We speak of the rewards of hard work and the motivation of the free market and often overlook the down side of unfettered capitalism. My stay in India brings this all home to me in a very graphic way.

 

At the same time Asengupta's comments about how the India of 20 years ago broke the confidence of Indian youth with caste/tribal quotas and instilled a "can't do attitude". His comment that "the excitement in the air reminds me of Sillicon Valley in 1999" points to what can happen when we unleash the creative power in all of us and channel it to produce wealth that can benefit us all.

 

We humans are reaching a critical mass and the impact of our activity now affects the whole planed (global warming, deforestation, destruction of species...). We are running out of room and resources to continue our age old habits of waste, war, and unrestrained greed.

 

Our ability to create and control the world we live in has never been more obvious to me. We no longer live so much at the mercy of unknown and uncontrollable forces of nature as was the case for the last 100,000 years of our existence. We are the controllers of our own destiny and because of our huge numbers, the effect of our choices is manifested in the world more quickly and more pervasively than ever before.

 

Call me an idealistic fool, call me a dreamer, yet one of the reasons I got into the IT profession is because it is the technology that provides the mechanism that enables us to see each other and our world; it provides the mechanism that allows us to talk to each other and in that communication to understand each other and find ways to prosper individually and as a whole.

 

IT in the form of email, YouTube, Google Earth, and cell phones links us together with an immediacy and at a personal level not possible before. IT shows us who we are and shows us the results of our actions quite clearly and we can either act on this information or pretend we can continue on in our age old habits.

 

The feedback loop that IT creates gives us the guidance to find the way to continue our existance on this earth. I believe we will find a way to address the issues that now press so heavily and urgently on us all.

 

I am certainly a fool and so too is the person who continues to believe that they can profit and prosper as individuals while they destroy our mother earth and impoverish our fellow humans and kill our fellow creatures who inhabit this planet with us.

 

I feel the divide between the rich and the poor with an overwhelming force here in India. I look into the eyes of a child who taps on the window of my car while I am stopped in traffic and begs for a few rupees. These things are not abstractions to me.

 

As we ate in that restaurant the other night I looked out the picture window and I saw the towering statue of the Buddha in the middle of the Husain Sagar lake. The Buddha came from India and he told of the need to awaken from our misguided notions of how to achieve success. He told us that we are all one with each other and the world. 

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